UPDATE: My heart is broken for the island of Maui and the damage that they have sustained in the fire. All of my thoughts and prayers are with the citizens and families that have lost everything. I have so much love for this beautiful island and pray that they can rebuild their homes and businesses and restore Lahaina, Ka’anapali and all other affected areas to their original beauty.
Kauai & Maui was the trip of a lifetime for us. Since we had to travel 12 hours by plane to get there, it was important to us to be able to explore more than one island to make the most of our time in Hawaii. I am so thankful we did. Be sure to check out my article “10 Things People Forget To Pack For Hawaii” for my must-have items to bring!
Here is our 10 day itinerary to both Maui and Kauai.
Day 1: Travel Day, Washington DC to Maui
The Long Flight
Our adventure begins with our flight from DC to LA, which left at 9:15 am and was almost 6 hours long. We had a 2 hour layover in Los Angeles, then another 6 hour flight from LA to Maui. The flight from DC to LA wasn’t bad, but I will say the flight from LA to Maui seemed so much longer. Honestly, the last few hours were the absolute longest. We did buy WiFi for this flight for all 5 of us and that really helped on the second leg.
The flight arrived in Maui at 5:30 pm (Hawaiian Standard Time) which is 6 hours behind east coast time, so it felt like it was 11:30 pm our time. We picked up our rental car at the airport, a Toyota 4 Runner, which was great for our family of 5 and all of our luggage.
Check In
Next, we headed to our VRBO rental home to check in. The VRBO was in the sunny west Maui town of Ka’anapali. It was a condo at Aston Ka’anapali Shores which is a resort with restaurants, bars and a fun pool complete with waterfalls and a lazy river. Click here to view rental condos in Aston Ka’anapali Shores.
Our condo was on the 7th floor and had a patio overlooking the resort and beach, with beautiful views of the sunset. We honestly didn’t spend a lot of time in the condo as we were busy exploring most of the day, but it was the perfect size for our family, with 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, a kitchen and washer and dryer.
After checking in to the condo, we walked next door to the cutest little food truck park, Ka’anapali Lower Honoapilani Food Truck Park. This was quick, convenient and all of our food was delicious!
By the time we finished dinner, it was almost 9:00 pm, which felt like 3 in the morning for us. The kids and I headed back to the condo to unpack and my husband went to the grocery store across the street to grab some food for the condo for the week.
Day 2: Easter Sunrise on top of Haleakala Volcano, Maui
Our first full day in Maui was Easter Sunday. We left the condo at at 3:00 am HST (Hawaiian Standard TIme) which was 9:00 am “our time.” I purposely planned the Haleakala Sunrise for this day because we would not be adjusted to the 6 hour time change yet, and would be waking up early anyway due to the time change.
Vehicle Reservations
In order to visit Haleakala National Park for sunrise, you need to have a vehicle reservation. Vehicle reservations cost only $1 and are released 6 months in advance at 7:00 am HST on Recreation.gov.
If you want to go on June 2nd, you will need to purchase your tickets on December 2nd. These vehicle reservations sell out within minutes, so be sure to log on a few minutes early and start to refresh your screen. It’s also a good idea to create your account prior to that day, if you don’t have one. That will save time on the day of the release.
If you can’t get your tickets 6 months in advance, they do release more tickets 48 hours prior, also at 7 am HST. Click here for more information about sunrise times and vehicle reservations.
Even though you have a vehicle reservation, you will still have to pay an entrance fee of $30 to get into Haleakala National Park. This $30 entrance pass is good for 3 days and you purchase it at the entrance of the park when you arrive for sunrise.
Note: This pass is also good for the Pipiwai Trail and O’heo Gulch on the Road To Hana, so plan to do the Road to Hana within 3 days of Haleakala so you don’t have to buy a new pass.
Getting To Haleakala
There are several tours that will take you by bus up to see the sunrise. If you book a bus tour, you do not need a road reservation as the reservation is good for one vehicle no matter how many people are in it. We opted to drive ourselves to Haleakala.
Haleakala National Park is a 1 1/2 hour drive from West Maui. That is 1 1/2 hours to the entrance of the park, which is at the base of the volcano. It is another hour drive from the entrance to the Summit.
It was pitch dark when we entered Haleakala National Park to begin the drive which climbs from sea level to 10,023 feet elevation. My husband thankfully drove, as there were a lot of switchbacks. There are steep drop offs along the road, but it’s dark so you don’t see them on the way up.
We arrived at the top parking lot at the observation center around 5:00 am and it was already filling up. When that parking lot fills, they close it and you will have to park at the Visitor Center a bit down the road, which is where the restrooms are.
The temperature difference between the base of the mountain and the summit was almost 40 degrees. It was only 38 degrees at the top of the volcano and COLD. We had come prepared with jackets, hats and gloves and light blankets.
The Sunrise
The sunrise was unlike anything I’ve ever seen or likely ever will. You are literally above the clouds at 10,000 feet above sea level.
When the sun begins to rise, it is just stunning. Right before the sun crested, the park ranger began to chant the E Ala E traditional “Arise” song. It gave me goosebumps, and almost brought tears to my eyes it was so incredibly beautiful. Spending Easter morning watching this incredible, indescribable sunrise was truly a once in a lifetime experience.
Tips:
1.Remember when you look up what time sunrise is, the time you will see is the time the sun is all the way up. The beauty of this sunrise begins when the sun starts to peak out. That is a good hour before the actual sunrise.
2. Gas up your car before you go.
3. Bring warm jackets, hats, gloves, snacks, drinks and wear sneakers.
When the sun was fully risen, we were able to fully appreciate the scenery on the drive back down the volcano. We stopped at the parking lot at the overlook of the crater. To this day, my son still says Haleakala sunrise is his favorite thing he has ever done.
Day 1 Breakfast
By the time we got back to West Maui and our condo around 10:00 am, it felt like half the day had already passed! We had breakfast at Slappy Cakes in Ka’anapali. There is a griddle right on your table they make the pancakes on. Everyone loved the pancakes. I have celiacs, so no pancakes for me, but I did have a delicious dragonfruit chia bowl.
Ka’anapali Shores Beach and Pool
We spent the afternoon lounging at the beach and pool at our condo. The Beach Club restaurant that was part of our resort was the perfect spot for dinner. Throughout our evening, we couldn’t stop talking about what an incredible morning and day it was.
Easter started with a spectacular sunrise and ended with a beautiful sunset at our condo. What an unforgettable day!
Day 3: Road To Hana, Maui
Our third day we headed to the north shore of Maui to explore the famous Road to Hana.
The road (its actual name is Hana Highway, though most refer to it as Road To Hana) is 52 miles long from the town of Paia to the town of Hana. It can take over 2 hours to drive those 52 miles due to the narrow one lane bridges, hair pin turns and all of the scenic pull-offs. The road has 620 curves, 59 bridges and 18 waterfalls along the way.
Two of the best destinations on the Road to Hana are about 11 miles past Hana: Pipiwai Trail and O’heo’ Gulch.
The Backside
The majority of people turn around once they have reached O’heo’ and return back the way they came, although the road does continue on to the southern coast of Maui. This portion of the road is known as “The Backside.”
What is known as the Backside of the Road To Hana is more precarious to drive. The road is not always paved and it is advised against driving it unless you are a local who knows it well. In fact, a lot of rental car companies forbid you from driving on The Backside in your contract. It was in our rental car contract that we could not take the car on The Backside of Hana.
Waianapanapa State Park
One of the highlights of the Road To Hana was Waianapanapa State Park (pronounced why-uh-napa-napa). Waianapanapa is home to the famous black sand beach of Maui. It also has breathtaking views and rock formations and is a must-do on the Road To Hana.
Tip for Waianapanapa State Park: You must get a parking and entry pass to enter the park. These passes are good for 3 hours and are offered in these windows: 7:00-10:00, 10:00-12:30, 12:30-3:00, 3:00-6:00. You have to pick one window when you purchase the ticket and you can enter at any time during that window but you must leave by the end of your window.
The parking pass is $10 and the entry pass is $5 per person in your vehicle. These passes can be purchased 30 days prior to your trip at www.gowaianapanapa.com and do sell out quickly. Tickets must be purchased prior to 24 hours before your visit.
Take a screenshot or print your passes as there is limited cell service on the Road to Hana. We got the 7:00-10:00 pass and then drove the Road to Hana straight up to Waianapanapa without stopping at any of the pull offs, then hit the pull-offs are on our back down the road later.
The Road To Hana had so many epic sights. Our favorites were Waianapanapa State Park (home of the black sand beach), the sea turtles at Ho’okipa Beach and O’heo Gulch. We also loved the banana bread at Aunty Sandy’s.
Road to Hana Tips
Tip: We used the Haleakala National Park pass to get into Pipiwai and O’heo’ Gulch on the Road to Hana since the pass was good for 3 days.
Tip: Bring phone chargers for the car, and pack lunches and lots of snacks in a cooler for the day. Use the GyPSy Guide app as a tour guide along the road. It is incredibly helpful.
Tip: There is so much to do on the Road to Hana, in hindsight, we would have booked accomodations and stayed one night in Hana and spread the Road to Hana out over two days. That would’ve given us much more time to explore all of the beaches and parks along the way, as well as a lot less driving in one day!
Day 4: Kapalua Beach & Old Lahaina Luau, Maui
Kapalua Beach
With so much adventure the first three days, we were ready for a relaxing day at the beach. We were grateful that our VRBO condo had beach chairs for us to use.
Kapalua Beach was near our condo in west Maui and has a reef that is great for snorkeling. There is a hut where you can rent snorkel gear, but we brought our own. I swam above a sea turtle from right off the beach into the water. It was amazing!
Old Lahaina Luau
After our relaxing day at Kapalua Beach, we attended the Old Lahaina Luau for dinner. The Old Lahaina Luau is Maui’s oldest and most famous luau. It is the true, authentic Hawaiian luau experience. Hula dancers put on such an entertaining show that lasts for an hour after dinner is served.
The luau is outdoors, right on the beach in Lahaina. Upon arrival, we were each given a fresh flower lei to wear and a photographer took a picture of our family right on the beach. They later came around to our tables with the printed photos if we wanted to purchase one. (Of course I did, I’m a sucker for those.)
Old Lahaina Luau used to be a buffet style dinner, but post-Covid has changed to table service. The food was really good and they had several gluten free options for me. We couldn’t get over how much food they served, it was way more than we could’ve ever eaten. All of it was delicious.
Floor or Table Seating
When I purchased our tickets, there was a choice of traditional floor seating which was right in front of the stage or chair seating that was farther back. The floor seating is just that, you are sitting on a pillow on the floor at a low table to dine.
I opted for chair seating and am glad as our table had a great view of the stage and was not that much farther back than the floor tables. Sitting on the floor for 2 1/2 hours just didn’t sound appealing.
Sunset
One of the best parts of the whole experience was the unbelievable sunset that is the backdrop of the entire luau. The colors of the sunset were an Ombre’ yellow, orange, pink and lavender, with the palm trees silhouetted in the forefront. It was stunning. Haleakala won for best sunrise of my life, and Lahaina took the prize for best sunset.
A caveat: these luau tickets are not cheap and when purchasing for 5 people, we had major sticker shock. If you can swing the cost, it really is on top of the must-do things in Maui. The price is for the experience just as much as the dinner. We all agreed it was worth every penny. Nothing says Hawaii like a luau on the beach complete with leis, hula dancers, an amazing show and the most incredible sunset you’ve ever seen.
Tip: Buy your tickets as soon as you decide go to Maui. I called 6 months in advance and was disappointed to learn they were sold out. They put us on the waiting list and was thrilled when a month before our trip, they called and said spots opened up for us.
Day 5: Molokini Crater Snorkeling & Nakalele Blowhole, Maui
Molokini Crater
Our last day in Maui started with a snorkeling trip to Molokini Crater. We booked the Molokini Crater Zodiac Adventure Snorkel and Sea Turtle Cove trip through Viator and it was amazing! There were so many sea turtles! It was a pretty windy day so the boat ride was bumpy, but the snorkeling was fantastic. Lunch and snacks were included on the boat.
Nakalele Blowhole
After our fabulous snorkeling excursion, we checked out the Nakalele Blowhole. The blowhole is located on the northwest side of the island.
As soon as we parked the car, we saw several ominous handwritten signs scattered around, warning of impending death if you get too close. We heeded the warnings, kept enough distance and survived.
It is a hike down and back up over boulders, but definitely worth it if you go at high tide (which we did.) The heart shaped rock is near the blowhole at the bottom.
Tip: Wear hiking sandals or sneakers and try to get there for high tide. The blowhole isn’t as good during low tide.
Lahaina
On the way back we stopped on Front Street in Lahaina at Ululani’s Shave Ice, which was delicious. We found some great Maui souveniers and apparel at the shops located along Front Street.
After heading to the condo to freshen up, it was off to Whalers Village for some more shopping and dinner. Whalers Village is like an outdoor mall, there are so many shops and restaurants.
We ate at Hula Grill which is right on the beach in Whalers Village. Our table was under tiki huts surrounded by tiki torches. The atmosphere was as fantastic as the food.
Day 6: Kauai
Kauai here we come! After checking out of the condo and returning the rental car at the airport, we hopped on the 11:45 am flight to Kauai. The flight is short, only 45 minutes!
Our first glimpses of Kauai from the plane were gorgeous. We flew right over the Napali coastline which seemed to scream “Welcome To Paradise!” and gave us a sneak peak of what was to come.
Arrival in Kauai
The flight landed in Kauai at 12:30 pm. at the airport in Lihue, which is in the southeast part of the island. We picked up our car rental (this time a Honda Pilot) at the airport and drove the 20 minutes to our VRBO in Poipu Kapili Our rental home was located in the beachfront town of Poipu, just south of Koloa in southern Kauai.
The VRBO was a gorgeous 3 story townhouse across the street from the beach. Compared to the condo we had in Maui, it was huge! It came equipped with beach chairs, beach toys, boogie boards, a cooler, and even snorkel gear if you needed it.
The Maui and Kauai VRBOs were two totally different vibes and I’m glad we got to experience each. In Maui, we were staying at a resort. Even though it was a VRBO, it had the hotel feel with the restaurants, bars, and amazing pool and there was always a buzz of activity.
Kauai’s rental had the feel of a beach house. It was quiet, there was a nice community pool right outside our patio doors that never had a lot of people in it and there were tennis courts which we didn’t use.
Without even planning it, I realized that the two different VRBO styles were the exact way that each island was different. Maui is a resort island and Kauai is more quiet and adventurous.
We chose to stay in the southern end of Kauai because it is known to be the sunny end. The north shore of Kauai is lush and gorgeous, but also has the best chance of rain. It is lush for a reason, all that rainfall makes it the most beautiful part of the island.
Dinner at The Beach House
After checking in to the VRBO, we made a quick trip to the nearby grocery store to stock up on breakfast and lunch food for our stay.
Next, we explored Poipu on our way to dinner at The Beach House, which was recommended to us by a friend. The Beach House was the best restaurant we ate at during our entire trip in Hawaii. The food & the atmosphere were upscale and fantastic. It is an indoor restaurant, but the wall facing the water was completely open to the beach, giving the feel of outdoor seating.
The sunset on the beach outside the restaurant was just beautiful and the perfect way to start our Kauai adventure.
Day 7: Na Pali Coast Boat Tour & Poipu Beach, Kauai
Na Pali Coast Boat Tour
What an incredible way to spend Earth Day! We started the day with the Morning Magic boat tour of the Na Pali coast with The Na Pali Experience company. I cannot say enough about how incredible this was. It truly was a magical experience.
The Na Pali Experience is a small 24 foot catamaran boat that fits 6 people in addition to the Captain. They do combine parties to fill the boat. The boat we were on had my family of 5 and then one other guy. Our fellow traveler was so nice, a young guy in the Navy who was stationed in Kauai and was just along on his own to check out the Na Pali Coast.
The Captain also served as a tour guide, giving us so much information and history along the way. Our word of the day was definitely “WOW.” I must have said it a hundred times.
This little boat drove along the massive and awe inspiring Na Pali coast which if nothing else was an experience in itself. When we first arrived at the coast line, a pod of at least 50 dolphins swam right up to and under our boat. It was so magical!But that wasn’t all. The Captain drove this little boat right into several sea caves along the coast line. It was truly incredible.
Just when we didn’t think it could get any better, the Captain spotted a mama and baby whale and drove us over to it so we could watch them.
Just Wow.
Tip: Book well in advance, they sell out quickly. We wanted to do the afternoon tour but they were already sold out when we booked 6 months out.
If the Na Pali Experience is sold out during your visit, we had several people rave to us about the Lucky Lady Na Pali Coast Snorkel Tour
For more details on our Na Pali Experience boat tour, check out my article The Most Incredible Na Palii Coast Boat Tour in Kauai.
Poipu Beach
Still on a high from our boat tour, we headed to the Shops at Kukui’ula in Koloa for a late lunch and some shopping. We ate at Bubba’s which was great, then spent the afternoon at Poipu Beach.
Poipu Beach is the most popular beach in south Kauai. It has everything you could want in a beach, shallow wave-free wading areas, a reef area for snorkeling, and an area with really great waves for boogie boarding and surfing.
This beach was named by the Travel Channel as one of the 10 Best Beaches in The United States.
The best part of Poipu Beach, is the Monk Seals that are often sunbathing right on the beach. It was surreal to be lounging on the beach right next to a handful of Monk Seals who kept going in and out of the water. Some were napping, some were frolicking in the sand. There is a sign posted reminding beachgoers that they are endangered species and it is against federal law to disturb them.
After dinner, we watched a beautiful sunset at the beach by our VRBO, then headed to Kalapaki Joe’s for a causal dinner. This restaurant is actually more of a bar which we didn’t realize. The food was still good and was nice to end an exciting but long day with a nice Hawaiian cocktail!
Day 8: Waimea Canyon, Kauai
Waimea Canyon is in the southern part of Kauai, about 45 minutes west of Poipu. It is called “The Grand Canyon of the Pacific.”
Pu’u O Kila Lookout
From advice I saw on Trip Advisor, we knew that in order to get the best view at both the Pu’u O Kila Lookout and the Kalalau Lookout, we needed to be at the lookout by 9:00 a.m. The clouds roll in after 9:00 and obstruct the view from the lookouts.
The Pu’u O Kila lookout is at the very top of the canyon, where the road ends. It is a 45 minute drive from the entrance to the park all the way up to this point.
This lookout is at 4,000 feet elevation, and overlooks the dark green ridges and valley of the Na Pali Coast and the Pacific Ocean below. It looks down 4,000 feet to the very place that we were the day before on a 24 foot Catamaran.
We got to the Pu’u O Kila Lookout at 8:45 am and the views were absolutely breathtaking. The clouds had not obstructed the view yet, and it was truly gorgeous. There are a few hikes that you can do from this lookout, some of which I have heard are phenomenal. For more information on the hiking trails at Waimea Canyon, click here.
Kalalau Lookout
After soaking in the view at the lookout, we started the drive back down the Canyon, making stops at all of the lookouts along the way.
The first stop was the lookout just below Pu’u O Kila, the Kalalau Lookout. We wished we had gotten to the Canyon a little earlier. Even though we made it to the top before the clouds rolled in, by the time we reached the Kalalau Lookout, there was no visibility.
A few people there said that if you wait the clouds will clear eventually. They come and go throughout the day. We waited about 15 minutes at the Kalalau Lookout and the clouds had not cleared. The kids were getting impatient, so we decided to just keep going.
Only the two lookouts I mentioned have an issue with cloud cover and those are also the only ones that overlook the ocean. The rest of the lookouts overlook the Canyon, and they are also just amazing to see.
Tips: This was another drive that was very useful to use the GyPSy Guide audio tour. It was full of helpful tips and information as we drove.
There is a $5 entrance fee to the park. Pack lunches, snacks and drinks. There are picnic tables at most of the lookouts. There are also bathroom buildings at some of the lookouts.
Snorkeling at Kiahuna Beach
We left Waimea Canyon and drove back to our VRBO to spend the afternoon at Kiahuna Beach, which was across the street from our townhouse. Kiahuna Beach has great waves for boogie boarding and a reef area for snorkeling. Relaxing on the beach was the perfect end to the day!
Day 9: Kalalau Trail & North Shore Kauai
On our last full day in Kauai, we ventured up to the north shore of the island, which is by all means the most beautiful part of the island. The massive Hihimanu, Namalokama and Mamalahoa Mountains are the backdrop of the entire north shore and it is majestic.
Kalalau Trail
Our first stop was to hike part of the Kalalau Trail. I say part of it because the whole Kalalau Trail is 11 miles each way. The full hike is one of the most spectacular and also most dangerous hikes in the United States. For less experienced hikers, the first two miles of the hike to Hanakapai Beach is great, not nearly as dangerous and still provides you with plenty of gorgeous views.
The views were stunning. We were hiking the very mountain that we had looked up onto from our boat tour our first day in Kauai.
Reservations
Reservations are required in advance to be able to enter the park where the Kalalau Trail is. Reservations can be purchased 30 days in advance at Gohaena.com at 12:00 am HST.
The tickets are for shuttle + entry fee and are $35 for adults 16 and over and $25 for children 15 and under. These reservation tickets sell out fast, you will want to log on a few minutes early and refresh the screen until they become available.
If you are not able to get reservations, you should check back at 7am HST each day for any availability that may have come about due to cancellations. Be sure to print out or screenshot your reservations, as there is limited cell service in the park.
Permits are required for those who wish to hike past Hanakapai Beach. Click here to purchase your permit 90 days in advance.
Hanalei Bay
After our fabulous hike, we headed into the quaint town of Hanalei where we made a pit stop for lunch at Federico’s Fresh Mex Cuisine and then for some delicious shave ice at Wishing Well Shave Ice.
Then, it was time for some relaxation on the beach at Hanalei Bay. There was a painting of this beach hanging on the wall in our VRBO and it was so beautiful we just had to come check it out while we were in the north shore. It did not disappoint.
Being on a beach with the mountains as a backdrop was just beautiful. We watched birds on the beach right in front of us tear open a coconut with their beaks.
We ended our day in the north shore by watching the beautiful sunset on the famous Hanalei Bay Pier.
Day 10: Wailua Falls, Spouting Horn Blowhole & Flight Back Home
The last day in Kauai was a full day. Our flight did not depart until 10:30 p.m, so we had the whole day in Kauai. We couldn’t leave Kauai before checking out Wailua Falls and the Spouting Horn Blowhole.
Wailua Falls
After one last breakfast at the VRBO, we drove to the town of Wailua to the beautiful Wailua Falls, which is located at the south end of the Wailua River. This is a twin waterfall with two spouts cascading 173 feet.
Spouting Horn Blowhole
After lunch, we stopped at the Spouting Horn Blowhole, which was located in Poipu, very close to our rental house. Watching the blowhole spout the ocean water high into the air was just beautiful. Unfortunately, the time had come to head back and start to pack up all of our stuff.
Red Eye Flight Home
I had never taken a red eye flight before, and honestly, I really liked it. Normally I don’t sleep on airplanes, but I took an Advil PM and was able to sleep most of the night.
The first half of our flight was 6 hours from Kauai to Arizona. Then we had a very short layover (barely enough time to grab a cup of coffee which was an absolute must at that point) before boarding the next 5 1/2 hour flight from Arizona to DC.
The flight home did not seem nearly as long as the flight there. By the time we arrived back in DC, I was thinking…. we can totally do this again! Oh I wish I could.
Maui Vs Kauai
Our long plane ride gave us a lot of time to contemplate which island we liked better, Maui or Kauai. That is hard to say because they are both so beautiful and there is so much to do on each island.
Maui has more of a resort vibe, with many amazing restaurants and shops. Kauai does have fabulous restaurants and shops, but it has a more laid back, remote tropical island vibe, with a lot more hiking options.
I am glad that we had the opportunity to explore both islands and would recommend this island hopping itinerary to anyone wanting to explore Hawaii.
Things we wished we had been able to do:
In Maui: Makena Beach, Iao Valley State Monument, Maui Tropical Plantation
In Kauai: Kauai Helicopter Tour–we wanted to do this so badly in Kauai. I can only imagine how stunning it would be to fly in a helicopter over the majestic Na Pali Coast, over Waimea Canyon, Wailua Falls. The helicopter tour was over $300 dollars per ticket and there were 5 of us. That is really the one thing I would’ve wanted to do most out of our whole trip Maybe we will do the helicopter on our next trip to Kauai!
The only other thing we wished we had time for in Kauai is the Wailua River Secret Falls Kayak and Hiking Tour.
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